The final test in the Upper Midwest Trail Runner’s Gnarly Bandit 100 mile endurance run series is in the books. On September 10th, 68 brave soles lined up at Gooseberry Falls State Park to start the 2010 edition of the Superior Sawtooth 100 Mile Endurance Run. The National Weather Service was calling for rain throughout the night of the race but at the 8AM start it was a beautiful day with temps hovering around 50. Ideal conditions for one of the most beautiful and humbling races in the country.
Having just finished the Lean Horse 100 twelve days prior, I wasn’t sure what to expect as I lined up toward the front of the pack. I had bounced back quickly from Lean Horse and put together several training runs to knock the rust loose. I had kept on a low-carb diet post, and had my usual high fat meals coming into Superior. My nephew Nolan Ming had come up from IL to run. We camped out near the finish line in my 1973 VW bus the night before the race and hitched a ride on the shuttle to get to the start. Everything had come together well but there are some tough competitors every year at Superior. For this 51 year old runner to have a good showing, I would have to do well in the 40 and over Men’s Masters: a division that included nearly half the field. As I often do I had to focus on just running my race and forgetting about everyone else. To counteract any uncertainty, I had many good things to think about. I had great support from Salomon and Vespa Power Products. I also had all the encouragement in the world from the Ely Track and Field Club donors who had help me exceed my fundraising goal (see
www.active.com/donate/running4thewolves for more info).
With bad weather forecast for the evening, I decided I would push a little harder through the day knowing that I would have to give some time back in the evening once it started raining. The lead pack went out quickly and not 10 minutes into the race I was running by myself with perhaps 15 runners ahead of me. I would run the entire race alone which is an ideal situation for me. I can focus on my technique, hydration and pace while enjoying the 102.5 miles of single track that lay ahead. In the first 10 miles, a few runners came up from behind so I stepped off the trail and let them go by. As in the past, chances were good that I would see many of them again. Many folks just don’t seem to know what they’re getting into when the come to Superior. Heck, it’s Minnesota: how tough could it be? Pretty tough.
The north shore of Lake Superior is lined by a ridge that creates about 25,000 feet of steep climbs and an equal amount of descent over boulder-strewn terrain. Mix in some mud holes and a generous amount tamarack roots and you’ve got a big task ahead. The upside of this race is the stunning scenery. To the southeast there are magnificent views of Lake Superior. To the Northwest there is the vast Superior National Forest. Add in overlooks at Bean and Bear Lakes and dozens of booming falls where rivers carve gorges in the granite and you’ve got a feast for the eyes that is worthy of admission.
Aid stations are mostly about 8-10 miles a part at Superior. As the race progressed they were coming quickly. Having decided to wear my Salomon XT Wings hydration pack, I only needed to stop at every 2nd or 3rd aid station for a refill so I passed through Split Rock and arrived at the mile 20 Beaver Bay aid station for refueling. The aid station workers are extremely helpful and quickly got my pack refilled with water while I grabbed a few more gel packs for the difficult journey to Tettegouche aid station 13 miles away. This section of the course is where a runner needs to relax as there are a number of long climbs and some very technical running through places with names like “the Drainpipe”. Once reaching Tettegouche, things get a little more runnable although there is still a lot of big climbs and descents. Coming into Tettegouche I really felt great and started to think maybe this whole thing was going to work out. If I just stayed calm until Section 13, the running would get easier and I could open it up a bit; at least until the Manitou River gorge at mile 64. I buzzed through Tettegouche and headed for the County Road 6 aid station.
It’s always tough getting to CR6. There’s lots of climbs and false summits. When you finally reach the Sawmill Dome, the view is both breathtaking and ominous. From this point you can see almost every mountain you are going to have to climb through the night. Leaving Sawmill Dome it is only a couple miles from the CR6 aid station. It is a long descent along some unforgiving ridges. One wrong step and the descent, your race and, probably your life would be over quickly. I minded my step as I quickly progressed downhill.
At CR6 I reached my first drop bag. The weather had held up to the point so there was little I needed from it. I grabbed my headlamp, a few more gels and some grapes and quickly headed out for the climb up to Section 13; a local climbing area. Beyond Section 13, lay 18 miles of relatively good running. There were still plenty of roots and rock but relatively small hills. It wasn’t long before I arrived at Finland aid station – the half way point! I had made Finland is just under 12 hours; a little later than I had hoped but not bad. I passed a couple runners in the last 20 miles and a couple had passed me so I was about where I thought I needed to be. At Finland I once again refilled my hydration pack and then set out for Sonju Lake. On the way to Sonju, the rain started a little cat-and-mouse game. It would sprinkle, then quit, then sprinkle again. Eventually, things were wet enough that I stopped and put on my XT Wings jacket. The little bit of rain made the tamarack knees very slippery and I found myself having trouble hopping through an area where I normally make pretty good time. I pulled into Sonju, grabbed some fruit and a PB&J and sat down to talk with the man with the clipboard. He briefed me on who was in front of me and how far. This was mile 58 and the first time I checked my position in the race. He reported 14 runners ahead of me with one close by. I thank him and was on my way to Crosby-Manitou.
It wasn’t long before I caught the runner in front of me. Soon after that the rain started in earnest. It came down hard; it was very cold, and with the cold came a heavy fog. While not surprised by the weather, this did present some challenges. To keep from going hypothermic, I had to run fairly hard and yet the fog wouldn’t allow any rapid descents. Visibility with my headlamp was only a few yards. My eye site isn’t what it used to be so it was easy to outrun my field of vision. So this began a long night of running off trail and falling on my backside as I tried to hit the brakes as quickly when the downhill trail broke to the left of right. This was cause for concern since many of these turns are there to avoid steep drop-offs. Most drop-offs marked with bold reflective signs. But at one point I found myself clinging to the rock as I peered over a 15 foot drop. What an attention getter! I arrived before I knew it at the Crosby-Manitou aid station in a downpour. Just as I stepped up to grab some fruit the tent decided to unload some icy rain water and it went right down my neck. I started shaking like I was operating a jack hammer. I had to get out of there quick. I headed for the Manitou River.
In my opinion, the Manitou River gorge is where this race really begins. From this point, the remaining 40 miles is marked with several long, steep and rocky climbs including the biggest three in the race. The tricky descent down to the Manitou was like a slip-and-slide with boulders. I hung on to every tree I could as I made my way down. I was happy to reach the bottom despite the 1000 foot, hand-over-foot climb back up the other side. When its pouring rain, going up is better than going down.
After a long 3 hours, I reached the Sugarloaf aid station. Here I caught up with a fast 39 year old runner by the name of Chris Hansen. Chris quickly checked out of the aid station as I came in and I knew I was not likely to see him again. He always runs very well on the back end of this race. I again checked my position in the race. With 70+ miles behind me now, I had about a dozen runners in front and some were reported to be “not doing so well.” Armed with that info, I was off. I caught up with a couple more runners before reaching Cramer Road. Cramer always brings a sense that; no matter what, I’m going to finish this thing! From here the last 25 miles is tough but, hey; it’s only 25 miles! I pushed on with only the Temperance, Sawbill and Oberg aid stations between me and the finish. There were also the crushing climbs at Carlton Peak and Moose Mountain but I would deal with them as best I could. My objective was to do my best to run every flat and downhill. I would walk everything else from this point on. It wasn’t long some visibility started to return as the sun began to rise. This was a very welcome relief from the fog which had done nothing but gotten worse as the night progressed.
Reaching Temperance I was now in ninth position. Everyone ahead of me was reported to be in good shape. I asked if there were any old guys in front of me and the aid station workers said it was just kids except for a couple grandmas and a guy on crutches. Old joke but I thought it was pretty funny. I left Temperance and soon reached Carlton Peak; the first of two big climbs that come at the end of the race. Carlton is a beautiful mountain but the boulder-strewn ascent is a little treacherous on tired legs. The backside of Carlton provides a fairly good run into the Sawbill aid station. As I reached Sawbill I caught up with another runner. With 12 more miles and one more big climb to go, I sat down for 5 minutes and had a cup of soup and half of sandwich. Moose Mountain sat about halfway between me and the finish line. It was a fairly easy run into Oberg aid station but the daunting Moose sat a couple miles beyond that.
I caught the runner I saw earlier before I got to Oberg. He looked as tired as I felt. After the race was over he told me that I looked strong as I went by him but it wasn’t strength so much as it was persistence. Running all the downhills in the fog with my brakes on had taken its toll. I usually try to stride out on all but the steepest of downhills to gain ground and save my legs. This time my quads and the tops of my feet were screaming. Despite this, I stayed true to my commitment to run the flats and downhills although my definition of uphill was changing a bit. Reaching Oberg, I went straight through and on to the finish. Moose Mountain was difficult as always and the switchbacks up and down the last rise seemed to go on forever. Finally I could here the Popular River and I knew the finish was only minutes away. I sucked it up and pushed for the finish arriving 29 hours and 15 minutes after I had started. I was hoping for something closer to 26 hours this year but with the rain and fog that was not to be. Checking the board, I was the 8th runner to finish and the first runner in the 40+ men’s masters crowd so it was still a satisfying accomplishment.
I sat for a moment after the finish then retreated to the showers, then on to my VW for a little nap. My nephew had finished 2 hours ahead of me in 4th place despite a grapefruit-sized ankle he had injured very early in the race. Counting my own fingers and toes, I had no injuries and only one callus that had sloughed off my right foot from running in the 10 hours of rain. Truly a testament to the quality fit of my Salomon XA Pro Ultra 3Ds. Also, despite being soaked to the skin all night, I never had any problems with chafing from the Salomon Exo Wings shorts and shirt I had chosen to wear.
Over the course of the race I consumed more calories than normal. I believe this was due to the cold, the difficulty of the course and the fact I had run on short rest. My total calorie intake was about 4000. Vespa Amino Acid Supplements were once again a big factor in sustaining my energy levels throughout most of the run. I never lost my appetite or focus at any point in the race and never felt like I was fading badly except for the climbs at Carlton Peak and Moose Mountain where I always end up sucking wind.
So another Superior Sawtooth 100 is in the books. Congratulations to everyone who gutted it out this year and especially to Susan Donnelly who on completing her 10th Superior, becoming the first woman and only the 3rd person to do so. Ten finishes is a daunting task, but one worth considering. But for now, I’m thinking about a fun little adventure 3 weeks from now in Arkansas. It’s called the Traveller, . . See you on the trails!